Pages: 499-504

The study explores the evolution of jewellery consumption in Wallachia and Moldova, during the 17^th—18^th centuries, from the perspective of the luxury consumption at the level of the elite. The documents that were analysed highlight a transition from oriental luxury, introduced through Phanariot rulers to Western luxury, directly inspired by contact with travellers or foreign officers and ambassadors passing through the Principalities, but also indirectly through fashion magazines. On the other hand, we can see that jewellery is closely related to fashion and follows the trends and consumer options in connection to it. They mark the social or political position, but also the cultural values adopted by the elite, which are expressed through in fashion choices. There are jewels that are neutral in terms of western or oriental influence, just as belt clasp (paftale) are directly related to the oriental costume. After the middle of the eighteenth century, we notice a mutation in the dowry sheets regarding the relationship between jewellery and clothing, in favour of the latter; the typology of jewellery is limited, but we find valuable jewellery, adorned with diamonds or diamonds and, also, the number of some of the pieces increases (rings, for example).

Keywords: Wallachia, Moldavia, 17^th—18^th centuries, jewelleries consumption, luxury, fashion

Information about author:

Florentina Niţu (Bucharest, Romania). PhD. University of Bucharest. Regina Elisabeta Bd., 4-12, sector 5, Bucharest, 030018, Romania
E-mail: [email protected]