Pages: 251-268

The paper presents an attempt to examine the relationship of different forms of garments, based on the theory of tayloring and basic patterns. This is quite a new approach, based not on external sources for costume (visual and written information), but on the design itself. The evidence for the analysis is the archaeological textiles of the pre-Mongol Rus’, clothes of the Golden Horde and the kind of clothing which could be found in Russian costume before the reforms of Peter I. In view of the scarcity of finds and poor preservation of archaeological textiles, this paper only outlines the logical connections between certain types of garments and presents the criteria for assessing these connections.
We consider the different types of sarafan and conclude that their emergence and development is not associated with the Golden Horde. Kaftan-terlik probably has a genetic link with the Mongolian wear, the same connection can be assumed in case of a form of shirt known by ethnographic data.

Keywords: Rus’, impact of the Golden Horde, costume history, medieval textiles, ferâz’, kaftan, sarafan, shirt, costume reconstruction.

Information about author:

Olga Orfinskaya (Moscow, Russian Federation). Candidate of Historical Sciences. I. E. Grabar Federal Art-Scientific Restoration Center. Radio St., 17/6, Moscow, 105005, Russian Federation
E-mail: [email protected]